Trona Pinnacles

Trona is a cool little village located in Searles Valley. Its got a weird vibe. The town itself feels like a time capsule and hasn't been able to remotely get up to speed (it could be ambition doesn't thrive here, which is refreshing). It's obvious as there are no businesses anywhere in town, except for a sandwich shop in a gas station and a small market. Although I'm fond of the place, the town suffers from this lack of commerce. Groceries I'm sure are quite expensive at the little market or residents must drive into Ridgecrest, 50 miles west. It's got to be damming to the collective psyche of the community, too. I mean, nowhere to have coffee or relax with a beer. Just at the gas station. Having a heart attack? Tough shit. Put your hands on the wheel and pray. Speaking of prayer, there's a super strange looking church on the East side of town heading towards 190. It's like a mega church, something I'd expect to see in the rolling hills of Mississippi, but smack in Mojave. Way huge and intimidating-not friendly, like it wears its own shadow. It's a giant concrete diamond shaped cinder block (which will hold quite well should there be an nuclear explosion) with a cross on top. Cute.



Back in the day, Trona was the shit. It was the modern industrialized center for the Mojave Desert and was home to a successful railroad company (Trona Railways, and railfans still geek over the historical cars) numerous mining sites including American Borax and Potash Chemical Companies, area hospital and civil services. Trona produces--surprise-- 'Trona', naturally occurring as Sodium carbonate (stabilizer/bonder). It's actually a big part of the American economy (China buys a great deal of it!). It's mined only in Alkaline Lakes or dry lakes, like Owen's lake. According to Trona's website, "In peace, the products go to all parts of the globe and in World Wars I and II, Trona made chemicals for victory." Products for victory.  The chemical processing plant that produced the town is still there, in fact. Running 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. I stopped outside it to take some photos and heard the sound of the different machines churning who knows what inside. The most soothing sound, a distant echo, calming white noises, all right on time. I could easily fall asleep to this sound. But the smell of sulfer. God farted on Trona.



Standing on the corner of Trona & Main snapping photos, I saw a small restaurant and was thinking of grabbing a coffee. I went to open the door and it was locked. I looked to my left and saw a sign that said, "Business for sale, Please call 760-xxx-xxxx." Outside, there was a small table lined with salt & pepper shakers, half-full ketsup squeezers, napkin rings and doilies. I fantasized about buying it for a long second. Then these two bikers came up, looking for the same. I told them if they only had $10,000 they could happily brew their own coffee. We talked for a bit about the town and lack of services when this guy slowly lurches over. Looking renegade with his dirty metal prosthetic hook-hand, he wore a baseball hat on his head, with scraggly brown hairs peeking out and was missing several front teeth. He was really nice. He told us the story of how the owner, a woman (forgot her name), became very sick and is having trouble walking. She is ready now to sell it but has been open on and off. He said he feared for her because she shouldn't have been working.

I asked him how he felt about not having many options for a hang out spot. He didn't seem to care but immediately awarded the gas station down the street as the place to go. He said he often goes there for a sandwich. He also pointed out a hidden spot just up one of the side streets. He said that's where all the factory workers go (naturally, I wanted to go there but they was also closed). I asked what he did for work out there, and he said he worked at the grocery store next to us. He commented that he had to get back. I was so close to asking him If I could take a photo of him for my book, but I didn't have the guts. I am currently working on this. He would have been perfect. I still curse myself.




Anyway, the Pinnacles. You'll drive down a well paved road to get there. It's only a few miles off the 178. Keep your eyes peeled, the sign is not very large or noticeable. I passed by a large abandoned or out of service freight train. I like how everyone just leaves everything out in the desert. Is this actually the habit or do we notice it more because it's not covered in vegetation/cement/shit? Or better yet, are the trash ruins from an secret underground American Indian religion?

The Pinnacles are really cool looking. Like eerie little horns bursting through the earth. Heavy with relatively recent volcanic activity, the pinnacles and searles valley were once all underwater and a part of a chain of seas, this only a million or so years ago. I found Hanksite-a crystal deposit only produced in the Searles Valley. It's quite beautiful.

There were some old mine shafts (now filled in, BLM losers) at the base of some of the 'horns'. As the sun was going down, I felt the effects of the sundowner winds grace my skin and hiked around a bit more before taking off.



The Trona Pinnacles are cool shit, but mostly for those interested in the Geology of the area. They offer good camping under the stars and rockhounding. A word of advice,  do yourself a favor and plan a hike out in Death Valley or Searles Valley while you're there. There's a whole lot to see out here, and it's not all made of rock.